The cooling systems are far to over built on these cars for timing way off to have any significant effect.modern cars yes it has a huge effect because the cooling system is designed to be only just large enough when the engine is in tune Lastly, the fan shroud is held on how? With bolts and nuts with attached washers? This car is full of non-OEM hardware.Īny pictures of your radiator set up would be appreciated.It is not an air flow issue if its over heating on the roadĪ lower temp thermostat will not change anything except how fast the engine warms up.unless it is the wrong spec for the engine (flow spec.) So How does the fan shroud bolt on? The first picture or the second one? In the second picture.the fan shroud mount is even with the top of the radiator mount flange and it seems this would appear normal, but it would have to be adjusted accordingly when the fan is on the water pump. I'm guessin that the lower bolts on the spacer will slide into the lower grooves on the radiator and the spacer fits over the corners of the top cap but stays below the radiator cap. So I'm assuming this is the side that faces the radiator support, Yes? I plan on welding the center holes shut on the fan shroud since these are not OEM. This is an aftermarket radiator so I'm not expecting this thing to fit like OE. I'll be putting up some pictures of the radiator spacer, radiator and fan shroud. I would like all you big block gurus to weigh in. This also obstructs air flow which is why the factory used a bigger fan. You can not easily see through an automatic A/C radiator as the fins obstruct your view of the engine. The fin count will be higher on these radiators than on a small block manual transmission that you can easily see through it. Four core brass and copper construction, and will have an internal oil cooler built in. Radiators that were designed to be used in front of a BBC with an automatic transmission and A/C where the biggest made. So if you installed a small block radiator in a big block position it will sit low. To mount it the factory lowered the bottom of the radiator to add to the overall surface area. If your car was a factory original big block then your top down radiator would have been taller than that used in a small block. On cars with A/C the fan clutch was thermally controlled, so that it was coupled if the air temp off the radiator was above the thermostat temp. This was done to limit the RPM of the fan to below 4,800 RPM, to reduce noise with the added blades. The factory added a blade raising the number of blades to five prior to 1968, seven after that date and used a viscous fluid fan clutch to couple the fan to the water pump. The radiator gets bigger (longer or taller depending if it is a cross flow or not). With a motor above 300 horsepower (rarely encountered in a full size Chevy, unless it was in the form of the big block) the parts changed. Without A/C the radiator bolted directly to the core support. The A/C condenser sat in front of the radiator in side of that spacer. There wasn't a fan shroud used unless the car was equipped with A/C. With the fan fully inside the shroud or with no shroud at all you loose about a third of your fan's effective area as air is slung off the end of the blade instead of being pushed to the rear.įrom my memory of working on these cars back in the sixties the in line six and the base V8 engine (283 and 275 horse 327) used a four blade steel fan bolted to the water pump hub or a fan extension that could be a half inch, one inch, two inch, or three inches thick to space the fan blade close to the radiator. The fan is supposed to sit half in and half out of the shroud (with the edge of the shroud lined up with the hub of the fan).
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